Google "how much house can I afford" and you'll get a hundred different formulas. The 28% rule. The 36% rule. Calculators that spit out a number like it's gospel.

Here's the thing — those rules are a starting point, not the answer. The actual answer depends on a lot more than your gross income.

Let me walk you through how I actually look at this with clients.

The number the bank uses vs. the number that matters

Lenders look at something called your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI. That's basically: how much of your monthly income goes toward debt payments — including your new mortgage.

Most loan programs want that number at or below 43–45%. Some go higher with the right situation, some require lower. But the point is, the bank is looking at your total debt load, not just the home price.

So if you've got student loans, car payments, and credit cards, those eat into how much mortgage you can qualify for. Even if your income looks solid on paper.

Your take-home pay matters more than your salary

This is where the generic calculators get it wrong. They ask for your gross income — your salary before taxes. But you don't pay your mortgage with your salary. You pay it with your take-home pay.

So basically, I always want to know: what actually hits your bank account every month after taxes and deductions? That's the number that tells us if a mortgage payment is going to feel comfortable or like you're constantly holding your breath.

A $4,500 mortgage payment looks very different on someone who takes home $9,000 a month vs. someone who takes home $6,500 — even if they both earn the same salary on paper.

The costs people forget about

The mortgage payment isn't the only thing you're paying every month. You've also got:

I've had people come in excited about a home at a certain price, and after we add all of this up, the monthly payment is a few hundred dollars more than they expected. Not a dealbreaker — but worth knowing upfront.

The down payment question

How much you put down affects everything — your loan amount, your monthly payment, whether you pay mortgage insurance, and sometimes even your interest rate.

You don't have to put 20% down. That's a myth a lot of first-time buyers carry around. FHA loans start at 3.5% down. Conventional loans can go as low as 3% for the right borrower. VA loans for veterans? Zero down.

But the more you put down, the smaller your loan — and the lower your monthly payment. So the right down payment amount is really a balance between what you have saved and what keeps your payment in a comfortable range.

What "comfortable" actually means

Here's the thing I always say: qualifying for a loan and being able to comfortably live with that loan are two different things.

A bank might approve you for a $700,000 home. But if that payment leaves you with $200 in your account after bills every month, you're going to be miserable. You can't go out, can't save, can't handle a surprise car repair without stress.

I'd rather help someone get into a home that lets them actually enjoy living there than stretch them to the edge of what's technically possible.

So what's the actual number?

Honestly, I can't give you a real answer without knowing more about you — your income, your debts, your credit score, your savings, and what your monthly budget actually looks like.

But here's a rough way to think about it: most people I work with are comfortable when their total housing payment (mortgage + taxes + insurance + HOA) is somewhere around 25–30% of their take-home pay.

If you want to run the real numbers for your situation, use the affordability calculator on this site — it'll give you a ballpark fast.

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Ron Skaggs is a California-licensed Mortgage Loan Officer with Loan Factory. NMLS #367873 | Company NMLS #320841. Equal Housing Opportunity. This content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial advice. Loan approval is subject to credit, income, and property qualification.